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Crazy Water Pickled Lemons – a Review

Front cover of the cookbook Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry

Book Reviews | 30th January 2012 | By

A review of the cookbook Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry. Well I say cookbook, but it’s so much more than that. It’s a Mediterranean adventure full of nostalgia and dreamtime that will have you desperate to not only try some of the recipes but to get on the next boat heading south.

I was absolutely delighted to receive a review copy of Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry from Octopus Publishing. My Levantine genes will out, so it’s no surprise that Mediterranean cuisine is a favourite of mine. Much as I love Middle Eastern food, however, this book has a wider reach than a classic Claudia Roden for example. Subtitled enchanting dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa, it’s a gentle blend of cuisines, flavours and techniques. Adapted by Diana to form her own take on this culinary heartland.

Before receiving this book, I’d never heard of Diana Henry – shame on me! Now an award winning food writer for the Sunday Telegraph, Diana didn’t come to food writing until relatively late in life. She has, however, always been an avid cook and food adventurer. Her enthusiasm shines through the book and leaps out at surprising moments. First published in 2002, Crazy Water Pickled Lemons was the first of six books that Diana has written (so far). This is a revised edition published this year.

Arabian Nights

For me this book is evocative of the Arabian Nights, avidly read as a child. Later as a teenager, I was somewhat bemused by the unexpurgated version I’d got hold of. Anyway, the book itself is hypnotic in its sensual, magical, exotic and haunting qualities. The very chapter headings are compelling in their otherworldliness. Take for example, Fruits of Longing which highlights figs, quinces, pomegranates and dates. Then there’s Plundering the Stores where almonds, hazelnuts, pine nuts and dried fruits come to the fore. The Spice Trail has a mouthwatering selection of recipes which use cardamom, chilli, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, coriander, pimenton and saffron. And then there’s Heaven Scent with recipes using flowers and flower waters.

Photo from the cookbook Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry

And the drowsy photography fits right along, with half glimpses of foods remembered from some nostalgic dream-time. This is not usually my favourite form of food photography. I like to see the finished article in all its clarity which gives me an idea of what I am aiming for or aspiring to. But in Crazy Water Pickled Lemons, this form of photography fits well. Yet, despite this whimsy, the content is very much grounded in reality. This is a book of recipes that would be familiar to thousands of home cooks around the Mediterranean.

Vegetarian Recipes

As a vegetarian, I was slightly disappointed to see so many meat and fish dishes. But I did manage to pull some nuggets from the predominantly carnivorous pages. Kushary was one I was particularly excited by. A meal of rice, lentils and macaroni, this is one of Egypt’s national dishes and is particularly prevalent in Cairo. Despite having eaten it a number of times whilst living there, I have never yet made it.

There are also plenty of ideas for mezze including flatbreads and pickles. And of course, with the Med’s notoriously sweet tooth, there are a number of treats to keep the sugar lovers amongst us satisfied. Diana’s writing more than makes up for any lack of flesh free dishes. Indeed this book is a joy to read. Each chapter begins with a three page contextual narrative which tantalises in such a way that you can hardly wait to plunge into the recipes that proceed it.

Photo from the cookbook Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry.

No review is complete without at least one recipe being tested. I don’t really associate the Med with chocolate, so I was somewhat anxious that I wouldn’t have any chocolate recipes to try. But I needn’t have worried. There are four to choose from and all of them sound enticing and exotic: chocolate and rosemary sorbet, herb-scented truffles and stuffed figs dipped in chocolate. The one I chose to try first was a chocolate, hazelnut and sherry cake with sherry-raisin cream. This now features on my blog, but I can report here that the recipe was surprisingly simple, easy to follow and every bit as good as Diana promised.

Crazy Water

Pickled lemons I’m assuming all are familar with, but what is this crazy water referred to in the title? Fellow vegetarians, read no further, it’s all about sea bass. In Diana’s own words “Ah, the title dish. And I must say I initially fell in love with it for its name. It’s from the Amalfi coast and nobody really knows why the dish is called “Crazy Water”. Some have suggested it alluded to the sea-water used by fisherman to cook their catch at sea, others that the “crazy” refers to the heat imparted by the chilli“.

Stay in Touch

Thanks for visiting Tin and Thyme. If you get hold of Crazy Water Pickled Lemons or try this recipe for chocolate, hazelnut and sherry cake, I’d love to hear about it in the comments below. Do share photos on your preferred social media site and use the hashtag #tinandthyme, so I can spot them.

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37 Comments

  1. Foodycat

    30th January 2012 at 6:39 pm

    I always wonder when they say “revised” what bits changed. I have this book from 2002 and love it (if you like Diana Henry now, you really should have a look at her more recent book Plenty. Lots more vegetarian recipes!) but what if everything I love has been left out?!

    Reply
    • Choclette

      30th January 2012 at 7:37 pm

      Thanks Foodycat, will look out for Plenty – whose came first I wonder Diana’s or Yotam’s? Just looking on Amazon, the 2002 copies are worth quite a bit more – so maybe they did cut quite a bit out!

      Reply
  2. Susan's blog

    30th January 2012 at 6:48 pm

    I have one of her books to but am a bit befuzzled by it in some ways…I think I need to travel more to appreciate it. I loved your review and it helped me know more about your good self, never a bad thing. xxx

    Reply
    • Choclette

      30th January 2012 at 7:39 pm

      Ha ha, you may live to regret those words when I turn up on your doorstep demanding cake! Lots of questions for you. Which book have you got and have you ever used it and with what result?

      Reply
  3. Mozart's Girl

    30th January 2012 at 6:51 pm

    Lovely review! I too have had and enjoyed this book since it’s first publication, but delighted that it will now have more of the publicity it deserves! I love Diana Henry’s writing..,’Roasted Figs & Sugar Snow’ is another favourite, and her Gastropub books are great. This is my favourite of hers…because Middle Eastern & Mediterranean cuisine is – narrowly – my absolute idea of heaven. Hope you enjoy trying out the recipes! have a happy week xo

    Reply
    • Choclette

      30th January 2012 at 7:48 pm

      Thank you. I can’t believe I’ve been so slow on the DH uptake. Isn’t Middle Eastern food fabulous? One of the reasons I like it so much is that it’s great for vegetarians, although I also loved it when I was a meat eater. Roasted Figs & Sugar Snow is such a great title.

      Reply
  4. Lynds

    30th January 2012 at 7:41 pm

    Great review! I have the original copy so you’ve just inspired me to go and retrieve it from my shelves and have a look at it. Hopefully they haven’t changed much in the revised edition and I hope the recipes turn out well. : )

    Reply
  5. Choclette

    30th January 2012 at 7:49 pm

    Thank you Lynds – you might like the Crazy Water, it’s got lots of chilli in it 😉

    Reply
    • Lynds

      3rd February 2012 at 1:51 am

      Haha, even better! : )

      Reply
  6. Karen S Booth

    30th January 2012 at 7:51 pm

    A wonderfully written and concise review….it is interesting to see how many points we agreed on when discussing the book. I have made two of the recipes from the book already, and they both been just lovely.
    Karen

    Reply
  7. Choclette

    30th January 2012 at 8:06 pm

    Thanks Karen, I really enjoyed reading your review too. In fact, I think now I’ve done mine, I shall read yours again.

    Reply
  8. Shaheen

    30th January 2012 at 8:20 pm

    I was flicking through this book and Roast Figs Sugar Snow also by Diane Henry and wondered why I had not cooked from it. Lots of recipes bookmarked for when I move home.

    Reply
  9. Choclette

    30th January 2012 at 8:38 pm

    Shaheen, is there a cookery book you don’t have? What are your thoughts on the meat / vegetarian balance and is Roast Figs any better?

    Reply
  10. Janice

    30th January 2012 at 8:45 pm

    I’ve seen this book, but the title put me off a bit. However, it may be worth another look after your review!

    Reply
    • Choclette

      30th January 2012 at 9:14 pm

      Don’t let the title put you off Janice, it’s a fabulous book.

      Reply
    • Grazing Kate

      1st February 2012 at 7:19 pm

      That’s funny, Janice as the evocative and mysterious title really drew me in! Beautifully written review, Choclette

      Reply
  11. Gloria

    30th January 2012 at 10:18 pm

    look like a wonderful book !! gloria

    Reply
  12. Brownieville Girl

    30th January 2012 at 11:23 pm

    Love this book and I made the chocolate and sherry cake some time ago – delicious!

    Great review – must resurrect my copy.

    Reply
    • Choclette

      31st January 2012 at 9:15 pm

      Oh BVG, I will come pay you a visit and have a look at what you thought about this cake.

      Reply
  13. Charlotte Pike

    1st February 2012 at 7:51 am

    A really interesting and informative review, Choclette. This is a book on my “to buy” list, simply because I love Diana Henry and wanted to read her latest offering. But having read your review, I know that this is a book I really need to own.

    Out of interest, I think I am right in saying that Diana Henry writes the in season section at the front of the Waitrose magazine too.

    Charlotte
    @gofreecakes
    http://charlotteskitchendiary.wordpress.com/

    Reply
    • Choclette

      3rd February 2012 at 1:55 pm

      Thanks Charlotte – co-incidentally a friend gave me a copy of Waitrose mag this week and I saw the section by Diana Henry, then read your comment! I must have seen her there before, but as the name meant nothing, it was easily forgotten.

      Reply
  14. thelittleloaf

    1st February 2012 at 1:49 pm

    This book sounds wonderful and could imagine losing myself for hours in its pages. Incidentally acqua pazza, or crazy water, is the name of one of my favourite little restaurants in Venice…

    Although the whole book sounds wonderful, I have to admit I do slightly have my eye on that cake photo you’ve included at the end… Yum.

    Reply
    • Choclette

      3rd February 2012 at 1:57 pm

      Thanks Little Loaf – good to see the name in Italian and love the idea of a restaurant named as such. The cake is rather a good one and as it was so huge, it’s lasting us ages.

      Reply
  15. cityhippyfarmgirl

    2nd February 2012 at 5:47 am

    Ohh I have this one…although it’s a different cover. There are some lovely recipes in there! Actually I should revisit, it’s been awhile since I even opened it.

    Reply
    • Choclette

      3rd February 2012 at 1:59 pm

      Cityhippy, I have rather a large number of books I need to revisit. It’s usually when I’m having a clear out and think, have never / hardly ever used this book, better get rid of it, then on perusing wonder why on earth I haven’t used it more. Thus books in this household don’t get passed on very often!

      Reply
  16. celia

    2nd February 2012 at 7:53 pm

    Fascinating book – I think I’d buy it for the title alone! 🙂

    Reply
    • Choclette

      3rd February 2012 at 2:01 pm

      Yes, it’s a great title Celia. Another of hers is Roast Figs Sugar Snow, which I also like the sound of – haven’t actually seen a copy of that one though.

      Reply
  17. Francesca

    3rd February 2012 at 11:34 am

    They say that everyone “has one book in them”. Unfortunately for me Diana Henry has written mine already and it is called Plenty.

    Reply
  18. Choclette

    3rd February 2012 at 2:02 pm

    Wretched woman, how dare she 😉 I have heard that’s a particularly good one though.

    Reply
  19. Corina

    4th February 2012 at 6:36 pm

    I have this book too and love looking through it and drooling at the recipes but haven’t actually used it much. I read someone else’s review too this week and now I’m feeling I really should start using it!

    Reply
    • Choclette

      4th February 2012 at 8:05 pm

      Corina, sometimes food books are best just read – giving inspiration and enjoyment is well worth having a book for.

      Reply
  20. Tracy K Nixon

    13th May 2013 at 5:04 am

    My mum got me this book for my birthday and I love it! Great ideas!

    Reply
  21. samantha_ripley

    21st May 2013 at 9:21 am

    great title, looks fab!

    Reply
  22. Tracy K Nixon

    30th July 2013 at 4:04 am

    This is one of my favourite books! Really love it!

    Reply
  23. Maya Russell

    10th November 2013 at 6:09 am

    The sherry cake recipe sounds delicious!

    Reply
  24. Judith Luscombe

    24th July 2014 at 3:47 pm

    The book has an odd title but your review makes it sound more interesting. The Amalfi coast is an area I would love to visit and taste the cuisine.

    Reply

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