Fowey is one of our favourite local destinations, but we don’t manage to get there very often. However, we succeeded a couple of weeks ago – how time flies – and had a very enjoyable time of it! In fact it was the 5th March, St Piran’s Day, the patron saint of Cornwall so what better cause for celebration. Occasionally we drive to Polruan or Bodinnick and take one of the ferries, but this time we drove to Fowey itself. Parking up at the top of the hill, we wandered down through the winding lanes and alleyways, past the obligatory ancestral pile and through the churchyard to the river and main part of town.
Having watched a big china clay tanker go up the river (Fowey is a deep water port), we wandered upriver ourselves, passing a number of little shops and galleries until we got to the Bodinnick Ferry where the cars can cross the water. We surmised that this was where the station must have been when the railway used to come to Fowey and then seeing a road named “Station Road” we decided to follow it. We ended up on the Saints Way, a long distance footpath and went through a delightful woodland ending up at the top of the hill overlooking the Fowey river and town. We were both much impressed with the wide expanse of water featured below.
The treat of the day was, as usual to have lunch at Pinky Murphy’s Cafe as we find the food there to be exceptionally good. We are obviously not alone in this, it is quite a popular haunt and it has been known for us to be turned away due to lack of space. We were lucky this time and sat down contentedly upstairs in our favourite location, both diving to the bookshelves so we could peruse our chosen literature while we waited for our lunch. Pinky Murphy’s is a quirky but fun establishment and has an eclectic mix of, well, everything – cutlery, crockery and furnishings all delightfully mismatched with, surprise surprise, many shades of pink to be found scattered about.
Although the desserts looked tempting, we decided we really ought to get out in the spring sunshine before it disappeared. For our afternoon perambulation we went up to the castle on the south side of the town, passing Ready Money Cove on our way. After sitting on some rocks by the castle, soaking up the sun, we exerted ourselves further by walking along the cliff path for a while. The sea was a dazzling blue and naturally we had to stop and appreciate it further. A thoughtfully placed bench provided us with the necessary back support. Never has working up an appetite for tea been so pleasant!
As the sun started to sink into the ocean we knew it was time for tea. Decision time – cake was a must – did we go back to Pinky Murphy’s for the rather delectable chocolate refrigerator cake we had seen earlier or should we try somewhere different? We opted for adventure and ended up at The Dwelling House, a tea shop which specialised in teas for the connoisseur – not that we fit that category, but thought we’d give it a go. The chocolate cake was delicious, aided no doubt, by the huge dollop of clotted cream. The tea was also excellent. My Silver Needles (white tea) was served in a wonderfully designed teapot which would not look out of place in a Japanese tea ceremony – hardly surprising as it was from Japan. The tea ambiance was reinforced by the singular sight of teacups hanging in picture frames all around the room.
Fully replenished, we staggered slowly up the hill secure in the knowledge that we had yet again shown no restraint. But it was fun!